Four thousand shops, sixty-one covered streets, and a floor plan that defeats almost everyone on a first visit. The Grand Bazaar has been trading since 1461 and remains a working market rather than an exhibit, which is why it can be exhausting and why it is worth the effort.
Look for the Ic Bedesten at the centre. This was the original hall, built to hold the most valuable goods behind lockable doors, and it still concentrates the antique and silver dealers. Around it the trades fan out by quarter, a legacy of the guilds.
Open nine to seven, closed Sundays. Accept the tea when it is offered, take your time, and treat the first price as an invitation rather than a number.
From Romance Istanbul Hotel it is a twelve-minute walk.