When the Ottoman court decided Topkapi looked old-fashioned, it built Dolmabahce. Finished in 1856 on the shore of the Bosphorus, it was meant to say that the empire belonged in Europe, and every surface argues the case.
Fourteen tonnes of gold on the ceilings, a Baccarat crystal staircase, and in the ceremonial hall a chandelier of four and a half tonnes hanging under a dome thirty-six metres high. The gardens run down to the water and are worth the walk on their own.
Guided visits only, closed Mondays, and tickets are cheaper for the Selamlik alone if time is short.
From Romance Istanbul Hotel take the T1 tram to Kabatas; the trip takes around half an hour.